The present invention relates to a cosmetic makeup and/or care composition for keratin fibres and/or the skin, comprising at least one dispersion of particles comprising an at least partially internal phase of supple type based on supple polymer, and an at least partially external phase of rigid type that is an amorphous material. More especially, the invention relates to the use of at least one particle dispersion comprising an at least partially internal phase based on supple polymer, and an at least partially external phase of rigid type that is an amorphous material, in a cosmetic composition for improving the staying power and level of comfort of a deposit of the said composition, applied to the keratin materials.
The introduction of film-forming compounds into cosmetic compositions, as described, for example, in EP-A-0 775 483, as a dispersion in an aqueous phase, makes it possible to increase the staying power of the products, but often to the detriment of the level of comfort, and usually in a manner that is unacceptable to users. These problems of the level of comfort are partly associated with the mechanical properties of the deposits obtained on the skin. Specifically, cosmetic compositions containing film-forming compounds often create, when they dry on the skin, sensations of tautness that users find unpleasant. Furthermore, it may arise that the intrinsic rigidity of the film-forming compounds, when the film is formed on the skin, is too large, thus giving an unpleasant mask sensation during movements, for example of the face.
In the case of dispersions in a non-aqueous medium, patent application EP-A-0 987 012 describes an improvement in that, to improve the transfer-resistance cosmetic properties relative to the compositions of patent application EP-A-0 749 747, the polymer particles were surface-stabilized in dispersion by means of a stabilizer that may be a block polymer, a polymer grafted with pendant chains or a random polymer, alone or as a mixture. However, the stabilizer may be found in solution during storage of the composition in the jar or during use, which poses problems of homogeneity and thus of stability of the compositions comprising it.
Moreover, if the staying power of the film is promoted, by using a film-forming compound that forms a particularly supple film, there is an appreciable risk of the cosmetic composition containing such a film-forming agent becoming sticky, and thus difficult to use cosmetically, for example due to the appearance of a phenomenon of surface bonding when applied to the skin.
There is thus still a need for compositions that combine staying power and a level of comfort, that are stable and that can be applied to the skin or the lips.
One subject of the invention is, precisely, a cosmetic makeup and/or care composition for mucous membranes and/or the skin, comprising a particle dispersion comprising at least one at least partially internal phase of supple type comprising at least one supple polymer, having at least one glass transition temperature which is less than or equal to 60xc2x0 C. and preferably less than or equal to 45xc2x0 C., and at least one at least partially external phase of rigid type, the phase of rigid type being an amorphous material having at least one glass transition temperature which is greater than 60xc2x0 C. and which is such that the supple polymer is at least partially attached by chemical grafting to the said phase of rigid type.
The expression xe2x80x9cglass transition temperaturexe2x80x9d means the temperature at which the amorphous material passes from a solid vitreous state to a rubbery state. It is measured by a change in specific heat of the material observed. Differential thermal analysis (known as the DTA method) and differential calorimetry (known as DSC for xe2x80x9cDifferential Scanning Calorimetryxe2x80x9d) are methods for measuring such a glass transition temperature, and give substantially identical results. Thus, the glass transition temperature is an item of data measured, for example, from DSC measurement, according to ASTM standard D3418-97. Furthermore, by defining the polymer by means of a glass transition temperature, this means that the polymer can have heterogeneities in its microstructure but its overall behaviour is close to that of the phase of the polymer that has this glass transition temperature.
Surprisingly, the Applicant has found that the application of such compositions gives a deposit with noteworthy cosmetic properties. In particular, such compositions are comfortable when applied, and stay on remarkably well. They do not show any surface stickiness and have very good mechanical qualities once applied to the skin, after drying. In addition, they are stable, i.e. there is no decomposition of the two phases relative to each other, with appearance of macroscopic heterogeneous regions in the packaging or during or after application.
The advantage of such compositions is also that they have properties of absence of migration and of xe2x80x9ctransfer resistancexe2x80x9d. The term xe2x80x9cmigrationxe2x80x9d means an overflowing of the composition beyond the initial mark. Specifically, large migration of a cosmetic composition, and in general of the liquid fatty phase that may be present in the said composition, in particular when it is charged with colouring materials, leads to an unattractive effect around the area of application, for example around the eyes, which particularly accentuates wrinkles and fine lines. The composition according to the invention thus makes it possible to limit, especially in hot and humid regions, the migration of parts of the composition into the wrinkles and fine lines, after it has been deposited on the skin. Furthermore, the cosmetic composition, especially the makeup or care composition, according to the invention shows virtually no transfer, i.e. it virtually does not come off, leaving marks, on certain supports with which it may be placed in contact, and especially a glass, an item of clothing or the skin. Consequently, the user does not need to regularly freshen the application of the composition, especially a foundation, and does not have to tolerate the appearance of these unacceptable marks, for example on blouse collars.
The invention applies to makeup products for the lips, for instance lip products such as lipsticks and lip pencils. The invention also applies to care and/or treatment products for the face and/or the body, i.e. the skin, including the scalp, and the lips, for instance care products for the human face or body. The invention also applies to makeup products for skin, of both the human face and body, for instance foundations, concealer products, eyeshadows, face powders and temporary tattoo products. Finally, the invention applies to body hygiene products, for instance deodorants, shampoos and conditioners, to makeup products for the eyes, for instance eye liners and pencils, and also to care and makeup products for keratin fibres, for instance the hair, the eyelashes and the eyebrows, such as mascaras.
In one embodiment of the invention, the said particles containing phases of rigid type and of supple type are film-forming, and they can thus form a film generally at about 30xc2x0 C., i.e. they have an MFFT (for xe2x80x9cminimum film-forming temperaturexe2x80x9d) of less than or equal to about 30xc2x0 C. and preferably about 25xc2x0 C.
The formation of a film at room temperature of the particles according to the invention may require the presence of at least one coalescer or at least one plasticizer in the cosmetic care and/or makeup composition according to the invention, as is known to those skilled in the art. Such a plasticizer is generally a volatile organic compound that remains in the composition during the use and the formation of the film. Such a coalescer is generally a volatile organic compound that evaporates during the use and formation of the film.
According to such an embodiment, the film obtained after drying the composition, generally with spreading for a cosmetic composition, is such that it has a maximum tensile stress (for a percentage of elongation of less than 100%) of less than or equal to about 10 MPa and preferably less than or equal to about 5 MPa. The maximum tensile stress may be determined during tensile tests as described in ASTM standard D638-99, for example on a dumbbell-shaped test specimen (of type IV according to the standard) at a speed of 50 mm/min. The test specimens are cut out of films about 100 xcexcm thick. To prepare a film, the dispersions are poured into a Teflon-containing matrix and are left to dry at a temperature equal to 25xc2x0 C. in order for the volatile medium to evaporate off, and the film formed is recovered. The tests are preferably performed on films that have been dried for at least 24 h at room temperature (25xc2x0 C.) and at ambient humidity (50%).
Such a film shows no surface stickiness, i.e. after contact between the finger and the surface of the film, an impression of stickiness of the surface is not experienced when the contact with the said surface is broken by removing the finger, which is in contrast with what may be experienced after contact with an adhesive face, for example an adhesive tape.
Preferably, the supple polymer is especially chosen from block and/or random polymers. The expression xe2x80x9cblock and/or random polymersxe2x80x9d means polymers whose monomer distribution on the main chain or the pendant chain units is in block and/or random form. Such polymers may be polyacrylics, polymethacrylics, polysiloxanes and especially polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polyamides, polyurethanes, polyolefins, especially polyisoprenes, polybutadienes and polyisobutylenes (PIB), polyesters, polyvinyl ethers, polyvinylthio ethers and polyoxides, and combinations thereof. The term xe2x80x9ccombinationsxe2x80x9d means copolymers that may be formed from the monomers leading to the formation of the said polymers, whether these copolymers are in block or random form.
The said chemical grafting makes it possible, by establishing covalent bonds, to stabilize the link between the phase of rigid type and the phase of supple type. This grafting may be performed by block free-radical polymerization according to procedures that are well known to those skilled in the art. Comonomers containing several double bonds may also be used. Preferably, the glass transition temperature of the phase of rigid type is greater than or equal to 20xc2x0 C., preferably greater than 40xc2x0 C. and even more preferably greater than 60xc2x0 C.
The said phase of rigid type may be chosen from polymers, especially block and/or random polymers, such as polyacrylics, polymethacrylics such as, for example, polyacrylamides or polymethacrylic acids, polyolefins, polystyrenes, poly(vinyl halides), for instance PVC (polyvinyl chloride), poly(vinyl nitrites), polyurethanes, polyesters, polyvinylics, polyvinyl esters, polycarbonates, polysulphones, polysulphonamides, polycyclics containing a ring in the main chain, for instance polyphenylenes, polymers containing a hetero atom in the main chain, for instance polyamides, and polyoxyphenylenes, and combinations thereof.
The particles are generally from 1 nm to 10 xcexcm in size and preferably from 10 nm to 1 xcexcm in size, measured, for example, by a machine of Brookhaven BI-90 type which uses the technique of light scattering.
The proportion of phase of supple type relative to the phase of rigid type in the particles according to the invention is generally such that the phase of supple type represents at least 25%, preferably at least 50%, and up to 99%, by volume relative to the total volume of the particle.
In any case, the phase of rigid type and the phase of supple type are incompatible, i.e. they may be distinguished using techniques that are well known to those skilled in the art, such as, for example, electron microscopy.
The morphologies of the phases within the dispersed particles may be, for example, of core-shell type, with shell portions entirely surrounding the core, but also core-shell with a plurality of cores, or an interpenetrating network of phases. What is essential is that the phase of rigid type is at least partly and preferably predominantly external, and that the phase of supple type is at least partly and preferably predominantly internal.
The particles according to the invention, also known as multi-phase or composite particles, are non-homogenous particles, with potentially very diversified structures. They are prepared by consecutive series of polymerization, with various types of monomers. The particles of a first family of monomers are generally prepared in a separate step, or formed in situ by polymerization. Next, or at the same time, at least one other family of other monomers is polymerized during at least one additional polymerization step. The particles thus formed have at least one at least partially internal structure, or core structure, and at least one at least partially external structure, or shell structure. The formation of a xe2x80x9cmultilayerxe2x80x9d heterogeneous structure is thus possible. A large variety of morphologies may result therefrom, of the core-shell type, but also, for example, with fragmented inclusions of the phase of rigid type into the phase of supple type. According to the invention, it is essential for the structure in the at least partially external phase of supple type to be more supple than the structure in the at least partially external phase of rigid type.
In one preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is such that the particle dispersion is a dispersion in hydrophilic medium. Preferably, such a dispersion is an aqueous dispersion, i.e. a dispersion in an aqueous medium mainly consisting of water and preferably almost totally of water. In this case, the particles have generally been prepared by at least one emulsion polymerization, in an essentially aqueous continuous phase, starting with reaction initiators, such as photochemical or thermal initiators, for a polymerization that is usually a free-radical polymerization. The additives generally present for such a preparation may be stabilizers, chain-transfer agents and/or catalysts.
In the preferred case of the invention such that the particle dispersion is an aqueous dispersion, it is then referred to as a latex or pseudolatex. The term xe2x80x9clatexxe2x80x9d means an aqueous dispersion of polymer particles as may be obtained by emulsion polymerization of at least one monomer. Latices generally have a minimum film-forming temperature, or MFFT, that is as low as possible. As explained above, the MFFT is the lowest temperature at which the particles form a continuous film, after evaporating off the water in the present case.
In another preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is such that the particle dispersion is a dispersion in lipophilic medium, i.e. xe2x80x9cnon-aqueousxe2x80x9d medium. In this case, the dispersion is referred to as a xe2x80x9cnon-aqueous dispersion of polymersxe2x80x9d, or NAD. In this case, the particles have generally been prepared by at least one solution polymerization, in a solvent or organic medium, starting with reaction initiators, such as free-radical thermal initiators, for an essentially free-radical polymerization. The solvent phase chosen must be able to dissolve the monomers but must not be a solvent for the final polymer, which is found in dispersion. The compounds generally present for such a preparation may be stabilizers, chain-transfer agents and/or catalysts.
The phase of rigid type is thus generally an amorphous material with a glass transition temperature of greater than 60xc2x0 C. (and thus higher than the glass transition temperature of the supple polymer) and the supple polymer is at least partially attached by chemical grafting onto the said phase.
The polymers forming the supple and hard phases of the invention may be prepared by free-radical polymerization in at least two steps and may consist essentially of units derived by polymerization of monomers chosen from the group formed by:
(meth)acrylic acid esters, for example of a C1-C8 alkyl,
vinyl esters of linear or branched carboxylic acids, such as vinyl acetate or vinyl stearate,
styrene and its derivatives, such as chloromethylstyrene or xcex1-methylstyrene,
conjugated dienes such as butadiene or isoprene,
acrylamide, methacrylamide and acrylonitrile,
vinyl chloride,
(meth)acrylic acids and derivatives thereof.
The selection of monomers both for the supple polymer and for the amorphous material of the phase of rigid type is conditioned by properties such as the hydrophobicity or the Tg that it is desired to give to the polymer under consideration. For each polymer to be prepared, the monomer, or the nature and composition of the monomer blend, when it is a case of at least two monomers, are determined so as to obtain the desired Tg.
The polymers of the rigid and supple phases may be crosslinked by means of monomers containing at least two copolymerizable double bonds, chosen, for example, from:
conjugated dienes, such as butadiene or isoprene,
allylic esters of xcex1,xcex2-unsaturated carboxylic or dicarboxylic acids, such as allyl acrylate, allyl methacrylate or diallyl maleate,
polyacrylics or polymethacrylics generally comprising at least two ethylenic unsaturations, such as ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, 1,3-butylene glycol dimethacrylate, 1,4-butanediol diacrylate or pentaerythrityl tetracrylate,
polyvinyls such as divinylbenzene or trivinylbenzene
polyallylics such as triallyl cyanurate.
The polymer forming the rigid part may be grafted onto the supple polymer by introduction into the said polymer of residues of monomer units. These residues of monomer units may be obtained by incorporating into the supple phase grafting monomers such as conjugated dienes as described above, or allylic esters of xcex1,xcex2-unsaturated carboxylic or dicarboxylic acids as described above, which contain two polymerizable functions of different reactivity.
Galenics
According to the invention, the compositions according to the invention may be in the form of a simple or multiple emulsion containing an oily or aqueous continuous phase, or an oily dispersion in an aqueous phase by means of vesicles containing ionic and/or nonionic lipids. They may also have the appearance of a more or less fluid cream, a more or less viscous paste, or a solid emulsion cast in a mould in the form of a dish or stick. The dynamic viscosity of the composition, when the composition is liquid, may be chosen within a wide range from 0.001 to 800 Pa.s, measured at 25xc2x0 C. using a viscometer equipped with a spindle rotating at 100 rpm.
In one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition may contain a hydrophilic continuous phase, i.e. at least one hydrophilic body, which is miscible with or at least partially soluble in water, which may be liquid, pasty or solid at room temperature (generally 25xc2x0 C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, i.e. 1 013xc3x97105 Pa). In particular, the said composition may comprise or be especially in the form of a suspension, dispersion or solution in water or an aqueous-alcoholic medium, which is optionally thickened, or even gelled; an oil-in-water (O/W) or multiple (W/O/W) emulsion, in cream, paste or even solid form; an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel or hydrophilic mousse; an emulsified gel; a dispersion of vesicles, especially of ionic or nonionic lipids; a two-phase or multiphase lotion; a spray. A person skilled in the art may select the appropriate presentation form and also the method for preparing it, based on his general knowledge, taking into account firstly the nature of the constituents used, especially their solubility in the support, and secondly the intended application of the composition.
The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a dermatological tinted composition or a care composition for the skin and/or the lips, in the form of an antisun composition or a body hygiene composition, especially in the form of a deodorant product. It may especially be used as a care base for the skin or the lips.
The composition of the invention may also be in the form of a coloured makeup product for the skin, in particular a foundation, optionally having care or treatment properties, a blusher, a face powder, an eyeshadow, a concealer product, an eyeliner or a body makeup product; a lip makeup product, for instance a lipstick, optionally having care or treatment properties.
Needless to say, the composition of the invention must be cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable. For the purposes of the invention, the expression xe2x80x9ccosmetically acceptablexe2x80x9d means a composition of pleasant appearance, odour and taste. The expression xe2x80x9cdermatologically acceptablexe2x80x9d means non-toxic and able to be applied to the skin or the lips of human beings.
Additives
The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one dyestuff. The dyestuff according to the invention may be chosen from lipophilic dyes, hydrophilic dyes, pigments and nacres usually used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions, and mixtures thereof, all these compounds usually being used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions. This dyestuff is generally present in a proportion of from 0.01% to 50% of the total weight of the composition and preferably from 1% to 30%.
The liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan red, DandC Red 17, DandC Green 6, xcex2-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, DandC Yellow 11, DandC Violet 2, DandC Orange 5, quinoline yellow and annatto, or mixtures thereof.
The pigments may be white or coloured, mineral and/or organic, coated or uncoated, and of usual or nanometric size. The term xe2x80x9cpigmentsxe2x80x9d should be understood as meaning particles that are insoluble in the medium, intended to colour and/or opacify the composition. Among the mineral pigments that may be mentioned are titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide and also iron oxide or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and mixtures thereof. Among the organic pigments that may be mentioned are carbon black, pigments of DandC type, and laques based on cocheneal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium, and mixtures thereof. The pigments may especially be coated with at least one silicone compound such as polydimethylsiloxanes and/or with polymers, especially polyetheylenes and/or at least one fluoro compound and/or at least one amino acid. Mention may also be made of xe2x80x9cSI oxidesxe2x80x9d which are polymethylhydrogenosiloxane-coated pigments sold by the company Miyoshi.
The nacreous pigments may be chosen from white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with, especially, ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride, and mixtures thereof.
The composition of the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field under consideration, chosen especially from antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, fragrances, fillers, products that are pasty at room temperature, neutralizers, polymers that are liposoluble or dispersible in the medium, cosmetic or dermatological active agents such as, for example, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, sunscreens, free-radical scavengers, dispersants, for instance poly(12-hydroxystearic acid), and mixtures thereof. These additives may be present in the composition in a proportion of from 0.01% to 50% and better still from 0.01% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the composition contains at least one cosmetic or dermatological active agent.
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional additives and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
Advantageously, the composition contains at least one cosmetic active agent and/or one dermatological active agent and/or at least one dyestuff.
The composition may also contain at least one filler (one or more) in order to obtain a matt product, which is especially desired for foundations and in particular for foundations or day creams for individuals with greasy skin. The term xe2x80x9cfillerxe2x80x9d means any particle that is solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, used alone or in combination, which does not react chemically with the various ingredients of the composition and which are insoluble in these ingredients, even when these ingredients are brought to a temperature above room temperature and especially to their softening point or to their melting point. These inert fillers have melting temperatures at least higher than 170xc2x0 C. and better still higher than 200xc2x0 C. They may be absorbent or non-absorbent, i.e. capable in particular of absorbing the oils of the composition and also the biological substances secreted by the skin. Preferably, these fillers have an apparent diameter ranging from 0.01 to 150 xcexcm, preferably from 0.5 to 120 xcexcm and better still from 1 to 80 xcexcm. An apparent diameter corresponds to the diameter of the circle in which the elementary particle is inscribed along its smallest dimension (thickness for lamellae).
The filler that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be mineral or organic, lamellar, spherical or oblong. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders, for instance Nylon(copyright) (Orgasol(copyright) from Atochem), poly-xcex2-alanine powders, polyethylene powders, powders of an acrylic polymer and especially of polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA), for instance the product sold by Wackherr under the reference Covabead LH-85 (particle size 10-12 xcexcm), powders of acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap(copyright) from Dow Corning), polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon(copyright)) powders, lauroyllysine, boron nitride, starch, hollow polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance Expancel(copyright) (Nobel Industrie), carbonates such as precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and magnesium hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads(copyright) from Maprecos), glass microcapsules, ceramic microcapsules and polyester particles, and mixtures thereof. These fillers may be surface-treated, especially to make them lipophilic.
The composition may optionally contain one or more waxes. For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic fatty compound, which is solid at room temperature (25xc2x0 C.) with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point of greater than 45xc2x0 C. and better still greater than 55xc2x0 C., which may be up to 200xc2x0 C., and having in the solid state an anisotropic crystal organization. For the purposes of the patent application, the waxes are those generally used in cosmetics and dermatology; they are especially of natural origin, for instance beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, Japan wax, cork fibre wax or sugar cane wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, montan wax, ozokerites, hydrogenated oils, for instance hydrogenated jojoba oil, and also of synthetic origin, for instance polyethylene waxes derived from the polymerization of ethylene, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, esters of fatty acids and of glycerides that are solid at 40xc2x0 C., and silicone waxes, for instance alkyl, alkoxy, and/or esters of poly(di)methylsiloxane that are solid at 40xc2x0 C. Waxes of synthetic origin are preferably used for reasons of greater reproducibility than waxes of natural origin.
The composition according to the invention also advantageously contains at least one fatty compound that is pasty at room temperature. For the purposes of the invention, the expression xe2x80x9cpasty fatty substancexe2x80x9d means fatty substances with a melting point ranging from 20 to 55xc2x0 C. and preferably 25 to 45xc2x0 C., and/or a viscosity at 40xc2x0 C. ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa.s (1 to 400 poises) and preferably 0.5 to 25 Pa.s, measured using a Contraves TV or Rheomat 80 viscometer, equipped with a spindle rotating at 240 rpm. A person skilled in the art can select the spindle for measuring the viscosity from the spindles MS-r3 and MS-r4, on the basis of his general knowledge, so as to be able to measure the pasty compound tested.
According to the invention, one or more pasty fatty substances may also be used. Preferably, these fatty substances are hydrocarbon compounds, optionally of polymeric type; they may also be chosen from silicone compounds and/or fluoro compounds; they may thus be in the form of a mixture of hydrocarbon compounds and/or silicone compounds and/or fluoro compounds.
Among the pasty compounds that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of lanolins and lanolin derivatives, for instance acetylated lanolins or oxypropylenated lanolins, with a viscosity from 18 to 21 Pa.s and preferably 19 to 20.5 Pa.s, and/or a melting point from 30 to 45xc2x0 C., or mixtures thereof. Esters of fatty acids or of fatty alcohols may also be used, especially those containing 20 to 65 carbon atoms (melting point of about 20 to 35xc2x0 C. and/or viscosity at 40xc2x0 C. ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa.s), for instance triisostearyl or cetyl citrate; arachidyl propionate; polyvinyl laurate; cholesterol esters, for instance triglycerides of plant origin such as hydrogenated plant oils, viscous polyesters, for instance poly(12-hydroxystearic acid), and mixtures thereof. Triglycerides of plant origin that may be used include hydrogenated castor oil derivatives, such as xe2x80x9cThixinrxe2x80x9d from Rheox.
Mention may also be made of silicone pasty fatty substances such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) containing pendant chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms; and having a melting point of 20-55xc2x0 C., for instance stearyl dimethicones, especially those sold by the company Dow Corning under the trade names DC2503 and DC25514, and mixtures thereof.
The pasty fatty substance(s) may be present in a proportion of from 0.1% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 1-45% by weight and even more preferentially in a proportion of 2-30% by weight, in the composition, if they are present.
In one embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention advantageously contains a liquid aqueous phase in particular comprising water and water-miscible solvents in any proportion, for instance polyols (glycerol, diglycerol or ethylene glycol), C2 to C5 lower monoalcohols, acetone, diacetone and mixtures thereof. The aqueous phase may represent from 0 to 75% of the total weight of the composition and better still from 5 to 50%.
In another embodiment of the invention, the liquid fatty phase in which the polymer may be dispersed may consist of any cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable oil, and more generally any physiologically acceptable oil, chosen especially from oils of mineral, animal, plant or synthetic origin, carbon-based oils, hydrocarbon oils, fluoro oils and/or silicone oils, alone or as a mixture, provided that they form a uniform and stable mixture and that they are compatible with the intended use. It is also possible for the composition to comprise a liquid fatty phase without the latter comprising any polymers.
The expression xe2x80x9cliquid fatty phasexe2x80x9d means any non-aqueous medium that is liquid at room temperature (25xc2x0 C.) and atmospheric pressure.
As liquid fatty phases that may be used in the invention, mention may thus be made of hydrocarbon oils such as liquid paraffin or liquid petroleum jelly, mink oil, turtle oil, soybean oil, perhydrosqualene, sweet almond oil, beauty-leaf oil, palm oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, parleam oil, arara oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, apricot oil, castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, olive oil or cereal germ oil; esters of lanolic acid, of oleic acid, of lauric acid or of stearic acid; fatty esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate or lactate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, glyceryl triisostearate or diglyceryl triisostearate; higher fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; higher fatty alcohols such as cetanol, stearyl alcohol or oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol or linolenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyldodecanol; silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), which are optionally phenylated such as phenyltrimethicones, or optionally substituted with aliphatic and/or aromatic groups that are optionally fluorinated, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, with fatty alcohols or with polyoxyalkylenes, fluorosilicones and perfluoro oils.
One or more oils that are volatile at room temperature may optionally be used. The expression xe2x80x9cvolatile oil phasexe2x80x9d means any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating from the skin or the lips or fibres, at room temperature. This volatile phase in particular comprises oils with a vapour pressure at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure ranging from 10xe2x88x923 to 300 mm Hg (0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa). These volatile oils especially facilitate the application of the composition to the skin, mucous membranes and keratin fibres. These oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups that are pendant or at the end of a silicone chain, and fluoro oils.
As volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicones containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and also C8-C16 isoparaffins. These volatile oils especially represent from 5% to 97.5% of the total weight of the composition and better still from 20% to 75%. As volatile oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, hexadecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane or C8-C16 isoparaffins such as Isopars and Permetyls, and especially isododecane.
According to the invention, the liquid fatty phase described above can constitute a continuous phase of the composition or a dispersed phase. Another possible phase is an aqueous phase containing water and optionally water-soluble solvents, for instance lower alcohols.
Advantageously, the composition of the invention is of the W/O or O/W type.
These emulsions may be obtained using a surfactant or a mixture of surfactants whose HLB (hydrophilic/lipophilic balance) is suited to the sense of the emulsion.
As surfactants that may be used in the invention, suited to obtaining a W/O emulsion, mention may be made of those with an HLB value of less than 7, and especially fatty acid esters of polyols, for instance mono-, di-, tri- or sesquioleates or stearates of sorbitol or of glycerol, glyceryl laurate or polyethylene glycol laurate; alkyl or alkoxy dimethicone copolyols with an alkyl or alkoxy chain pendant or at the end of a silicone skeleton, containing, for example, from 6 to 22 carbon atoms. As surfactants that may be used in the invention to obtain an O/W emulsion, mention may be made of those with an HLB value of greater than 7, for instance fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol (polyethylene glycol monostearate or monolaurate); polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters (stearate or oleate) of sorbitol; polyoxyethylenated alkyl (lauryl, cetyl, stearyl or octyl) ethers and dimethicone copolyols; and mixtures thereof. In general, any amphoteric ionic (cationic or anionic) surfactant and any nonionic surfactant that is well known to those skilled in the art.
The composition according to the invention may be manufactured by the known processes, generally used in cosmetics or dermatology.
More preferentially, the composition is a composition used on skin, for example, a foundation or eyeliner or eye shadow or face powder composition.
A subject of the invention is also a cosmetic care and/or makeup process for the skin and/or mucous membranes, preferably for the skin, of human beings, comprising the application to the skin and/or mucous membranes, preferably the skin, of a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, as defined above.
A subject of the invention is also the use of at least one particle dispersion comprising at least one at least partially internal phase of supple type comprising at least one supple polymer, with a glass transition temperature of less than or equal to 60xc2x0 C. and preferably less than or equal to 45xc2x0 C., and at least one at least partially external phase of rigid type, the phase of rigid type being an amorphous material having at least one glass transition temperature which is greater than 60xc2x0 C., and which is such that the supple polymer is at least partially attached by chemical grafting onto the said phase, in a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable composition, to improve the staying power and the level of comfort of a film of the said composition applied to keratin materials.
The expression xe2x80x9ckeratin materialsxe2x80x9d means the skin such as the lips and also keratin fibres such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows or the hair.
A subject of the invention is also the use of at least one particle dispersion comprising at least one at least partially internal phase of supple type comprising at least one supple polymer, with a glass transition temperature of less than or equal to 60xc2x0 C. and preferably less than or equal to 45xc2x0 C., and at least one at least partially internal phase of rigid type, the phase of rigid type being an amorphous material having at least one glass transition temperature which is greater than 60xc2x0 C. and which is such that the supple polymer is at least partially attached by chemical grafting onto the said phase, in a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable composition, to reduce the transfer and/or deposition of marks of a film of the said composition, applied to keratin materials, onto a support placed in contact with the said film.